One Sacred Wild
Photography & Story by Rona Neri
My African Safari was a life changing experience I’m honored to be able to share with you through my photographs. Never, in my wildest dreams, could I have imagined drifting off to sleep to the roar of lions, dining outdoors, as a hyena strolled casually past, or careening over rocks and small trees following painted wolves, as they hunted impala. On my first bush plane flight into Mala Mala, I watched as the little gray specks on the runway below revealed themselves to be a small herd of rhino. I had arrived into a new world; the culmination of everything I love about nature photography and the heart-pounding magic of wildlife.
I will never get over the animals - the extraordinary privilege of sharing space with lions, elephants, mongoose... my heartrate was never at a rest. Birds with rainbow wings, elephant calves joyful in play, tiny cheetah cubs peering at me from behind their mother. Each moment was another shot of adrenaline, another wave of gratitude. I learned so much!
Though each private game reserve was incredibly luxurious, the trip itself was never leisurely. I shot about 8 hours a day in every type of weather from rainy and 50 degrees to cloudless sunny days that climbed over 100 degrees! Our wakeup call came at 4:30 every morning so we could shoot in the best light and when the animals were most active. I grabbed coffee and a heavy backpack of camera equipment and then scrambled into an open Land Rover.
We were off onto that day’s adventure, never knowing what we would find. There was so much to see I hardly knew where to look. I loved the birds, mongooses, and dung beetles as much as I loved the rhinos, giraffes, and big cats. I’m a “bird nerd” already and seeing the gorgeous Lilac-breasted Roller or “rainbow bird” diving to catch its prey in the air was an incomparable thrill. There were birds of every size, color, and behavior – an ornithological feast!
I grew fascinated with animals I didn’t even think I liked, such as the Spotted Hyena, whose clans are run by a fierce Alpha female and who survive through their unparalleled intelligence and adaptability. An encounter with a mother hyena and her tiny newborn cubs revealed their unexpected maternal tenderness.
I already loved elephants, but watching them interact in the wild engendered next-level admiration. These massive animals are always roaming in herds, and I was enthralled to observe the complexity of their minds and relationships as they nurtured, played, protected and competed with one another.
Though we spent time observing all the animals we found, the focus of our tour were the predators; big cats and painted wolves. On my very first drive in Mala Mala, we discovered a stunning young female leopard, just before sunset, lazily waking from the branch where she’d been resting. I watched as she yawned, groomed and began her hunt by chasing a squirrel! I was breathless. It was the first of many predator encounters. Whenever we discovered them, we’d stay for as long as they would tolerate us. Most were so habituated to the vehicles, that they let us get remarkably close.
One evening, as the full moon rose over the savanna, a coalition of two adult male lions walked so close to our vehicle that had I put my hand just outside I could have run my fingers through their manes! I didn’t even breathe until they passed. People always ask me if I was afraid, and honestly I never was. Thrilled, yes, but never fearful.
Not only did I feel safe under the protection of our guides, who were both knowledgeable about and respectful of animal behavior, it was also clear that the animals were not even terribly interested in us. They were so used to the vehicles, we were almost like trees on the landscape. It was such a privilege to experience that trust; even more so when the mamas let us watch their cubs. The babies did notice us, because to them we were new, strange creatures. I loved their wide-open stares and watching as they grew from cautious to bold as their curiosity about us grew.
Each interaction I had with the animals of Africa deepened my love for wildlife and my belief that we must preserve and protect these wild spaces. I was able to see the interconnection of life in high relief. I was deeply moved by the people of South Africa who work so hard to protect this precious resource, especially the vulnerable rhinos who are relentlessly poached for their horns. Each game reserve I visited; Mala Mala, Londolozi and Phinda put conservation and the well-being of wildlife first. It was good to know my dream trip was a net benefit to the animals I photographed.
The good news is that you don’t have to go all the way to Africa to see what makes wild things so special. I “safari” in state natural areas near me every week. Get outside, look for the creatures all around you and find your inner wild. People love what they know and protect what they love. Connecting with nature is the key to its preservation of what I consider “One Sacred Wild.”