Venice: Unmasked
Your Venice adventure begins in a gondola.
Imagine a Bellini in hand, for a tour of the floating city that oozes romance. Explore a maze of canals and picturesque bridges along the ride, depending on how much time and money you have to spend. Be sure to barter for a fair price before the gondolier casts you into his spell and offers you a hand into the sleek black boat. Once you’re in, the negotiating is over. Time to unmask the secrets of Venice.
Ponte Di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) was the first of Venice’s stone constructions (1591) to span the Grand Canal and until the 19th century was the only link between the two banks.
Today, there are four bridges that cross the Grand Canal and over 400 throughout the city. Navigating Venezia is still challenging and the only way to get around is by boat or on foot. Beware-the cobblestone streets do not follow numerical order, so allow plenty of time to reach your destination. Expect an array of shops and cafes to tempt your tastes along the way.
There are 342 square miles of lagoon, divided into six districts to get lost in. Endless tales of history, art, and passion are buried in the canals, waiting to be discovered and retold.
The mythical St. Mark’s Square has been the heart of Venice for over a thousand years. Palazzo Ducale (14th-15th C.) Basilica Di San Marco (11th C.) and Ca’ d’Oro (1440) by Bon and Giovanni are just a few more gems you’ll discover on the tour. Soak it all in. You never know when Venice might sink.
Venice has always been the place to see and be seen, from art exhibitions to film festivals. Or for some of the rich and famous, escape to a hideaway, like Locanda Cipriani, located on the island of Torcello. Hemingway and Hepburn were just a few of the famous frequent visitors who brought home stories and recipes from Venice. The Bellini cocktail from Harry’s Bar is legendary to this day and was named for Venetian artist, Giovanni Bellini, during an art show in 1938.
Long before the Bellini was invented, there was the mystique of Carnevale.
According to legend, the Venetian tradition dates back to 1162 and followed a military victory. Celebrations of dancing, dining and bonfires took place in Piazza San Marco.
Masquerade balls with lavish costumes became fashionable during the 16th century. Elaborate masks were worn to conceal people’s identity during promiscuous activities, allowing people of all classes a rare opportunity to mingle together. Masks came to symbolize personality traits including elegance, authority, mystery and seduction. In those early days, the parties began after Christmas and continued for months, until the start of Lent. Carnevale is actually one date-Martedi Grasso or Fat Tuesday, and was eventually adapted to fit into the Catholic rituals. Similar to Mardi Gras, anything goes at Carnevale!
Gradually, people from all over the world would flock to Venice for the occasion. As the Venetian Republic fell at the end of the 18th century, mask traditions declined. Carnevale almost disappeared for nearly two centuries and was only revived in the 1980s.
Now, you can once again experience the magic of Carnevale.
Be prepared to pay up, if you want to attend. First, you’ll need tickets for the ball, then you must find the perfect costume. Or, simply design your own, like Laura and Isabella Visconti did a few years ago. The stunning mother and daughter, who look more like sisters, hand stitched fresh water pearls, among other gems, onto their fairytale dresses. Isabella became so enchanted with the creative process, she plans to open her own atelier to design custom ball gowns for events like Carnevale.
Oh, and don’t forget the finishing touch-a mask to conceal your identity, or perhaps reveal your true personality. Which will it be? Masked or unmasked in Venice? Either way, I’m told Carnevale is a once in a lifetime party worth every penny. I hope to return to Venice one day and partake in the revelry myself. I’m already dreaming of the ball gown Isabella will design for me and the feathered mask I’ll be hiding behind at the ball, probably with a touch of red to represent my energetic personality. Which mask would you choose?
Venice Links:
Venetian Masks
Before you decide, learn more about the meaning behind the masks and find buying tips in articles by fellow journalist, Rossi Thomson, who lived in Italy for six years. Carnevale photos by Frank Kovalcheck Photography.
Carnevale Venezia 2022
The tradition of Carnevale returns to Venice, February 19-March 1, 2022
Find a full list of public events on the official website Carnevale di Venezia
Book your travel early and consult with the hotel concierge for package deals
Budget at least $600 per person for a ticket to a ball and costume rental
Eat
Caffe Florian-Take a step back in time as you enter this cafe, which dates back to 1720. Lovingly restored to its original glory, each room has a unique style. Imagine the Ladies and Lords passing in front of your eyes, gossiping, gambling and courting. Cafe Florian embodies the soul of decadence that Venice exudes. Expect to pay up for the full experience. Or stay within your budget and stick to coffee for a fleeting glimpse of the historic cafe. Either way, it’s a must see in Venice.
Locanda Cipriani-A rustic restaurant with a rich history, serving the likes of Hemingway and Princess Diana, with a quaint country inn on site. Serving traditional Venetian cuisine surrounded by a lush garden terrace. The chef recommends their signature Sampietro ‘all Carlina’-John Dory fish and scampi with butter and capers. Located on the island of Torcello, allow 45 minutes by water taxi.
Osteria Alle Testiere-Charming trattoria with only a few tables, serving the freshest fish. Don’t expect to find the same dish served twice. The inventive chef creates new menus daily. Trust your waiter and sommelier for recommendations on food and wine- you won’t be disappointed. Located near the Basilica di San Marco. Advance booking required.
Hosteria Al Vecio Bragosso-Our first taste of Venetian cuisine was at this lovely, yet affordable restaurant. We were impressed with the high quality seafood appetizers and entrees, the homemade lobster ravioli was our favorite. After dinner, we enjoyed a Bellini and a beer at a nearby Irish pub I forget the name of. Located near the Rialto bridge on Strada Nova. So many more places to try, I’ve only shared a few favorites here.
Stay
Pesaro Palace-A four star gem filled with old world elegance overlooks a canal. This 15th century building boutique hotel boasts a welcoming courtyard, one of my favorite features during our stay, a few years ago. The Pesaro gets rave reviews for service and value, not bad for multiple canal views and private gardens. Live music and walking tours are occasionally available onsite, but may incur additional costs.
Locanda Cipriani-A charming historic inn with a gourmet restaurant on site has hosted both Hollywood and British royalty over the years. Upon check-in you’ll step back in time with all the essentials, but deliberately no TV. Instead, immerse yourself in the stories inspired right here, when you read one of Hemingway’s classics, he even has a room named after him. A peaceful garden atmosphere awaits you on the island of Torcello, which was actually the first inhabited site in the lagoon, dating back to around 400 BC. Few relics remain, but this church is still standing. Book early to secure your room at the inn, with only five available at this four star hotel, they go quickly.
Hotel Danieli-A five star splurge for an unforgettable experience. This lavish hotel offers rooms and suites, plus a polished restaurant and terrace with lagoon views. The place to people watch and strike a pose during Carnevale. This historic property has three palaces and artwork dating back to the 14th century. Once home to royalty, these palaces are still fit for a king or queen. If price is no object, live it up in luxury here.
Zabelicious Tips:
Purchase a vaporetto (water bus) pass if you are spending more than a few days there. Warning-some vaporetto stops close at 5pm.
Book a hotel near the airport on your last night to avoid delays trying to catch a water bus.
Comfy shoes are a must. You are either walking on cobblestones or hopping into Gondola’s. Unstable footwear could send you overboard with a splash into the canal.