Germany Tour: Tübingen and The Black Forest
If you are looking for a charming hillside town rich with history, look no further than Tübingen, Germany; home to one of Europe’s oldest universities. The University of Tübingen was established in 1477 and the picturesque town dates back to 1231. I was fortunate to have my cousin, Alex, who lives and works there, as my tour guide.
First stop, the nearest pub to quench my thirst, after a long journey from the states. We found a seat outdoors overlooking the Neckar river, as we watched the college students soak up the sun against a rainbow of gingerbread houses.
It was an unseasonably warm April day, and we left no stone unturned. We explored the lovingly restored medieval town square, as we climbed up the hill to the impressive Hohentubingen Castle, built in 1037. It is a rare example of such architecture left in Germany, as most cities were destroyed in the second world war. The views from the top are the best in the city. Once we finished our trek up and around the castle, we needed to refuel.
Fortunately, we discovered a wine bar along the cobblestone streets of the square, where we made friends with a local professor. We bartered with a bottle of wine for his knowledge. Our history lesson lasted longer than the bottle of wine did. We learned a thing or two about the Swabian culture and cuisine. No two dishes are quite the same and everyone thinks their version is the best. During lent, when Catholic Germans weren’t allowed to eat meat, they created a stuffed pasta with meat hidden inside, known as Maultaschen, a Swabian speciality he highly recommended. We sent the professor and his lovely wife off with a bottle of wine to go, as a thank you.
We didn’t have the heart to tell him, we already had reservations at the local Italian restaurant, Al Dente. We would have to try the Swabian delicacies another day. Al Dente didn’t disappoint. Once I stepped inside the cozy, quaint cafe, I felt as though I was transported to Italy. We indulged in whatever the chef and staff recommended. Homemade pastas that melted in your mouth, accompanied by perfectly seasoned seafood and lean meats. Our waiter surprised us with a complimentary dessert of Tiramisu! It was the perfect way to cap off my brief tour of Tübingen. My belly was full and I was ready for a good night’s rest to prepare for our next adventure; the Black Forest.
Bright and early we were off on our day trip to the Black Forest. Alex had mapped it all out; even a strategic stop at a local patisserie, where we purchased a freshly baked loaf of bread. I asked him if we would be needing to drop crumbs along the way in case we got lost in the forest? He assured me we would not be going off trail.
We spent the day hiking, imagining the Grimm’s fairy tale characters coming to life at any moment. It was eerie and magical at the same time. As soon as we discovered the way back, we decided it was safe to eat the bread. A trail of crumbs would not be necessary. Thank goodness! I was starving.
We had dinner reservations at one of the oldest resorts tucked away in the mountains, which offered a variety of Michelin restaurants.
We were seated in one of the original hand painted rooms, where they served traditional German cuisine, with a modern flair. Finally, I would try the Swabian dish the professor recommended. I can see why the Monks created this pasta to hide their meat. The Maultaschen was sinfully delicious!
Tubingen Links
Eat & Drink
Al Dente-Authentic Italian ambience in an historic German town. What more could you ask for? The staff was amazing and we let them serve us their recommendations. Hearty portions of fresh pasta accompanied by lean meats or seafood but not too heavy. Reasonably priced wine and they even brought out a complimentary dessert of Tiramisu.
Marquart am Markt-We stumbled upon this wine market after our hike to the castle and they happened to be offering free samples. It took us a while to settle on a bottle we both liked. They didn’t seem to mind. We enjoyed our wine tasting outdoors at an iron table on the square. Friendly service and affordable prices. Highly recommend this wine shop.
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Market Square-Strolling around the square in this stunning town is the best way to get your bearings and soak up the history of this well preserved medieval village. Take time to notice the stunning buildings, such as the Rathhaus, and other interesting architecture.
Hohentubingen Castle -Explore the 11th century museum’s ancient artifacts and enjoy breathtaking views of the city from the castle.
St. George’s Collegiate Church-A late gothic structure built in 1470, was one of the first to convert to Martin Luther’s teachings.
Discover Maps & More-Contact Tübingen Tourist Center here for more info on points of interest and special events.
Stay
Hotel Krone Tübingen-The Hotel Krone is the ideal starting point for your tour of Tübingen. Situated at the gateway to the historic Old Town, the 1885 building has been modernized for travelers. Subtle touches of the past remain, in the billiard room and on site restaurant named after King Ludwig. The four-star hotel is affordable and walking distance to the railway station.
Black Forest Links
Eat
Backerei Plaz-A strategic stop for us en route from Tübingen to the Black Forest for our loaf of fresh baked bread. We made friends with the head baker, so enjoyed a few extra pastries to go.
Traube Tonbach-Choose from several Michelin restaurants on this gorgeous property. The team of chefs is world class, creating seasonal Swabian classics in all of their dining rooms. This is where I finally tried the Maultaschen, which was recommended by the professor. It lived up to his decadent description, as did the gourmet black forest cake, which was a work of art in and of itself. We dined in the most rustic restaurant, Bauernstube, which was one of the original buildings where the lumberjacks ate. Sadly, due to a devastating fire since then, that room was destroyed. Fortunately, the other restaurants were not damaged in the blaze and remain open.
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Black Forest-Explore hiking trails for all levels in the magical Black Forest of Germany. Discover easy, self guided trails or challenge yourself off the beaten path. The possibilities are endless. Don’t forget to pack plenty of water and a loaf of bread in case you need to drop some crumbs to find your way back. Hopefully, you can enjoy it as a snack instead!
Stay
Traube Tonbach-A legend almost as famous as the Grimm’s fairytales in the Black Forest since 1789. Still owned and operated by the Finkbeiner family who founded it along with a team of staff, this five star property is stunning. What began as a tavern for thirsty lumberjacks in the Tonbach valley grew as the family added a bakery and eventually rooms to rent. The expansion of what’s developed into a posh resort offers the best of both worlds, modern conveniences in the new section and old world charm in the original buildings. Several Michelin restaurants, bars, spa and pool are all on site.
Explore More of Germany
Time to do some more exploring in Germany? Check out my travel guide on Stuttgart.